Club Officials for 2004/5

President - Grif (Jacob Griffin)

Vice President - Toolbox (Rob Hammann)

Secretary - Chubby (Sean Campbell)

Internet Coordinator (Webmaster) - Taxxman2k (Dave Haughs)

Rough Times Editor - PigPen Jr. (Brian Owens) X-Files Directors (Site History) - Dale (Dale Lakin) Alx (Alex Strong)

WINTER 2004

Rough Times Newsletter

The RRORC is organized for the purpose of:

The RRORC exists solely for one purpose, for the enjoyment of its members. Through the use of the RRORC.com website, the Rough Times newsletter and social gatherings, the RRORC hopes to promote friendship and exchange knowledge between its’ members and board users. It is a place for hobbyists to interact and friends to meet. It strives to balance the adult opinions of our members, with the family nature of our hobby and does so in a fair manner. We are a close-knit group, but welcome all new users and members with enthusiasm. RRORC is a club that derives strength from its’ members and an organization that is building for the future of our common interest. Welcome to the RRORC!

The RRORC is a nationwide club with members all over the country.  We hold trail rides and events all over the U.S. and Canada.  

If you would like to learn more, please feel free to contact us at our website or by mail at:

Rough Rangers Off-Road Club

P.O. Box 670160

Northfield, Ohio 44067-0160

BLUE LIGHTNING – THE BUILD UP STORY…

In the fall of 2002 I purchased Flex’s 87 BII with the understanding that I was to keep it’s name The Blue Lightning that had bin pasted down threw the club. Blue already had a Body Lift and was running 31’s. The first thing to do was getting some 31x11.50 LTB Super Swampers under her and start hitting the trails. Then I welded the rear and put in a roll cage w/racing seat and five point harnesses. Later was added a James Duff winch bumper and Warn E9500i winch. Wheeled her many times throughout the year hitting many RRORC events. I can tell ya the little thing would go almost anywhere as long as she could clear it. After replacing the rear carrier several times and then shattering the Tcase and exploding the rear axle shafts, gears and pinion I decided it was time for the SAS.

Now the fun begins, PsychoBilly said he’d help with the swap. So finding of parts starts. Went with the 77 F150 axles because the saddles for rad arms are welded on and could be moved in. Ordered EB 3.5 Coil springs and seats. Used the stock 77 Coil buckets and shock mounts. Had 5.14 Ford Racing gears installed w/ Detroit Locker in the front and spooled the rear. While the axles were being done at Greensburg Machine & Driveline KingNuke and I started to dismantle the 7.5 and D28. Axles came back then the saddles needed ground off, you gotta be very careful not to cut into the tubing, just grind into the welds and then beat on it with a chisel then it will snap rite off. Wasn’t has hard as I thought it would be. The rear was then just placed in position to give stability and the front was placed. We moved it up as far as we could but the power steering pump was in the way so only got moved about a 1” forward. Everything was placed and bolted on then welded. Back to rear to do the same, kept the stock leafs and added two main leafs and one helper to each side placed on the stock 77 blocks which were welded to the perches. Made new tranny cross member out of the stock rad arm mounts and a piece off the old cross member. The steering was fabricated from the 77 steering arms and so was the track bar. Now to install the shocks and brakes. Went with Rancho 5000’s 12”travel in the front and 12”skyjackers on the rear. Kept the drum brakes for now. Went with the 34x10.5x15 LTB Super Swampers on the stock 77 rims. I know some of you think they are too small but wanted to keep it small and simple to improve handling.

Out to the Snowball run at Wellsville for the Shakedown we go! On the run it’s discovered that the track bar needs a better set up and the front DS angle is a little to much for the Tcase. I’m pleased with the way she stands, handles and just crawls now. Thanks go out to everyone for all the help given to get her where she’s at! With a little bit more work she’ll be ready for the runs of 2004. C Ya On the trails!

Written by, PQ4x4 / Ann Gazboda

FORD NEWS

FORD BRONCO CONCEPT CAPTURES SPIRIT OF ORIGINAL WHILE SHOWCASING NEW POWERTRAIN TECHNOLOGIES

The legendary Bronco is back as Ford re-explores the origins of the sport utility vehicle in a concept making its debut at the 2004 North American International Auto Show. The Ford Bronco concept demonstrates the original’s authentic spirit while advancing power train technologies.
At a time when sport utilities are becoming more and more civilized – some to the point of forgetting their roots – the Bronco’s clean, raw shape, uncluttered interior and capable chassis make it the ideal tool for work, play or just making a statement.
Key design features reminiscent of the original Ford Bronco include the boxy, upright roofline, short wheelbase, round headlamps and the Bronco nameplate milled into the modern three-bar grille. A winch and guide rollers are integrated into the lower fascia. Exterior details include exposed door hinges, cowl vents and flared wheel wells. Unique loop-shaped door handles are integrated into the door panels and open with a tug.
"True to its heritage, the Bronco concept is a tough, genuine SUV that’s all about function," said J Mays, Ford Motor Company group vice president of Design. "It’s like a claw hammer in a box full of department store, battery-operated, plastic, power tools."
Yet within Ford Bronco concept’s rugged design is an advanced turbo-diesel power train with concept technologies that stretch the envelope of today’s conventional propulsion modes.
"The Bronco concept showcases significant advanced power train technologies, mating a 2.0-liter intercooled turbo diesel with an efficient six-speed PowerShift™ transmission and Intelligent™ four-wheel-drive system for a powerful, sure-footed off-roader," said Graham Hoare, director, Power train Advanced and Research Engineering. "Then comes the fun part. We’ve added nitrous-oxide injection for a burst of power at your fingertips."
Although only a concept, the Bronco demonstrates how Ford could further complement its extensive SUV lineup that includes Escape, Explorer, Expedition and Excursion.
"The original Bronco carved new trails as a rugged off-roader, but Ford really created the SUV phenomenon with the introduction of the Explorer in 1990," said Steve Lyons, president, Ford Division. "Since that time, Ford has always been the clear leader in SUVs. But we will keep looking at new ways to extend our SUV leadership. For example, we’re introducing the Freestyle crossover for customers who are looking for a very civilized SUV alternative. At the other extreme, the Bronco concept shows how a small, rugged and extremely capable off-road machine could complement our SUV lineup."

Design

The Bronco concept strikes a familiar profile of the authentic SUVs of the late 1960s and at the same time is contemporary, appealing and relevant for today’s market. The Bronco concept adds modern technologies to an original theme for a fresh new approach. The headlamps use LED and halogen light sources to cast a wider beam for better peripheral vision in off-road situations.
The Ford name is integrated into the tailgate that swings open to the side, allowing easy access to the rear cargo area. The tail lamps are rectangular and feature LED lights in a cascaded array. Bronco sits on LT 265/70R18 Goodyear all-terrain tires mounted on specially cut 18-inch, six-spoke aluminum wheels that convey the confidence to carry it over any surface in any condition. A full-size spare tire is mounted in the rear cargo area.
The roof is made up of two separate sections. The rear portion can be removed for an open-air driving experience. In another link with the original Bronco, roll bar accents can be attached once the rear portion of the roof is removed, giving the look and feel of a Baja racer. Ford offered customized "Baja Broncos" in the early 1970s.
A monotone color scheme featuring a warm silver finish, coupled with bright anodized brushed aluminum accents, flows seamlessly from the exterior body panels to the exposed interior surfaces. The two seats are trimmed in ginger-hued suede that looks and feels like a leather work glove, accented with same color leather inserts and a four-line stitching pattern often found on a rugged tool belt.
The instrument cluster is made up of two round bezels, housing a speedometer and a combination odometer/compass. A lockable glove box features an integrated grab handle that is perfectly positioned to reassure the passenger when traversing rough terrain. Corrugated interior floor panels further communicate strength and durability.
"The Bronco concept is like your favorite pair of worn, faded jeans – classic, familiar, comfortable and always in style," said Mays.

The Original
Ford introduced the original Bronco in August 1965 as a response to the needs of active Americans who sought adventure as well as practical transportation. Bronco, with a 92-inch wheelbase, was available in three body styles: A four-passenger wagon with a removable full-length roof, a pickup with a half roof and open rear and a two-door roadster with a choice of two- or four-passenger seating.
Like the other no-frills off-roaders of the day – such as the Land Rover Defender and International Scout – the Bronco was both adept and adaptable. Owners loved its ruggedness and the ease with which they could customize it for their needs. Ford offered an array of work-and-play options including winches, snowplow blades, locking front hubs, tow hooks, air-lift springs, an auxiliary gas tank and more.
The original Bronco was powered by a 105 horsepower inline six-cylinder engine from the Ford Falcon and was mated with a fully synchronized three-speed manual transmission with a column-mounted shifter – its location affectionately dubbed "three on the tree."
The Ford small-block 289-cubic-inch V-8 became available as an option in 1966, upgraded to 302 cubic inches in 1969. Full-time four-wheel-drive uniquely mounted for maximum ground clearance and a solid front axle made it an ideal choice for off-road enthusiasts.
Bronco’s sturdy shape is instantly recognizable. The simple, upright stance, signature round headlamps and basic, functional interior are hallmarks of the original design and have made it an icon among hard-core off-roaders.
Bronco was an immediate success, leading the emerging recreational four-wheel drive market with sales of 18,200 units in its first full year of production. Ford continued to update the original Bronco until 1977 – its best sales year, but its last. More than 230,000 were produced from 1966-1977. A much larger Bronco took over in 1978.

Powerful Diesel Punch – With a Little Extra Kick
The Ford Bronco concept is powered by a proven 2.0-liter common-rail Duratorq TDCi engine from Ford’s European product range. This 16-valve turbo diesel combines outstanding power, torque, smoothness and exceptional fuel economy in a compact package, helping to change public expectations about diesel engines.
Using the latest common-rail fuel-injection technology, the 128 horsepower (130 PS) engine delivers peak torque of 244 lb-ft (330 Nm) at a relatively low 1,800 rpm – an ideal quality for off-roading or urban driving. Plus, Ford has engineered the engine technology to deliver overboost that provides an extra surge of power on driver demand for situations such as hill climbing. Overboost generates an even higher torque of 258 lb-ft (350 Nm) for a limited time under full throttle.
Sophisticated, electronically controlled injectors are central to the Bronco concept’s common-rail system. The system delivers fuel at extremely high pressure – up to 20,300 psi (1,400 bar) – to the injectors. The fuel is delivered to the cylinders with high precision and control that result in greater performance and torque and excellent fuel economy.
For the Bronco concept, Ford engineers took this punchy engine and went further.

A Nitrous "Kick"
The use of nitrous oxide (N2O) as a performance enhancement dates back to World War II, when it was employed to give Allied aircraft "emergency" boosts in both airspeed and altitude capabilities.
In the 1970s, nitrous systems saw growing popularity in the automotive performance community among racers looking for that added "kick." The word began to spread when enthusiast publications such as Hot Rod, Car Craft and Popular Hot Rodding informed their readers by publishing in-depth, technical feature stories on nitrous-oxide systems.
The 2001 movie, "The Fast and the Furious," and its sequel highlighted nitrous oxide use as a performance enhancer among high-revving, California street racers and spread the word to a new generation of enthusiasts.
How does nitrous injection work? Each nitrous oxide molecule is made up of two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36 percent oxygen by weight). During an engine’s combustion process, nitrous oxide breaks down and releases its oxygen atoms. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. The remaining nitrogen acts to keep cylinder pressures from getting out of hand.
On the new Ford Bronco concept, a stream of nitrous oxide is injected into the engine’s cylinders as long as the N2O button is held down, providing up to a temporary 50-hp boost and a three-second improvement in quarter-mile times, with 10-15 mph more top speed.
"This has practical benefits for an off-road vehicle when you might need a sudden burst of extra power to clear an obstacle and keep moving," Hoare said. "But it also is a blast to drive – literally."

Revolutionary PowerShift™ Transmission
Power is transmitted to the Bronco’s wheels through a revolutionary new six-speed PowerShift™ transmission that significantly improves performance and fuel economy.
PowerShift is the result of a Ford-Getrag joint venture, a transmission that will be seen in Ford Motor Company products later in the decade. In gasoline applications, PowerShift promises a 12-percent fuel economy advantage over today’s four-speed automatic transmissions and provides capability to handle a whopping 332 lb-ft (450 nm) of torque in a compact package.
"A twin wet-clutch module replaces the traditional torque converter and operates using hydraulic actuation. This feature is similar to the clutch found on a typical manual transmission," said Ernie DeVincent, department manager for transmissions and drivelines in Ford Advanced Research and Engineering.

"However, manual transmissions or automated manual transmissions change gears by disengaging the clutch, which interrupts the flow of torque and can cause rough shifts," DeVincent said. "The PowerShift approach changes gears by power-shifting from one clutch to the other, giving smooth shift quality equal to a typical automatic transmission."
The PowerShift transmission uses a layshaft architecture, which also has more in common with manual transmissions than typical automatics, with gears arranged on two parallel shafts. Within the PowerShift transmission, one clutch connects to the odd gears (1, 3, 5), the other clutch to the even gears (2, 4, 6). The dual-clutch layshaft has better mechanical efficiency than conventional automatic transmissions by eliminating the torque converter and the drag losses of an open clutch. A typical four-speed FWD automatic transmission has approximately 68 percent mechanical efficiency (on the EPA fuel economy test), vs. 80 percent for a PowerShift transmission.
Combined with the Duratorq TDCi diesel, the PowerShift promises 5 percent better fuel economy than a conventional six-speed automatic transmission, and 6 percent better acceleration times.

Outstanding Diesel Powertrain
The PowerShift transmission makes an ideal partner for the Duratorq TDCi engine. Even efficient, lightweight turbochargers can induce a noticeable delay in torque rise on tip-in because of inertia – the so-called "turbo lag." A twin clutch transmission like the PowerShift offers an advantage because of its lower inertia compared with a typical torque converter, minimizing the effect of turbo lag. In addition, the diesel’s low-end torque will allow lower launch rpm, which results in a shorter duration of clutch slip at launch for quicker acceleration.
Diesel engines tend to have differently shaped horsepower and torque curves than gasoline engines, making it desirable to adjust the step size between transmission gears accordingly. Here again, the PowerShift transmission, like all layshaft-based transmissions, offers an advantage. Internal gear sets can be changed easily during development, allowing the efficiencies of common transmission architecture, while optimizing gear ratios for both engine types.
While the shifting is automatic, the PowerShift transmission on the Bronco concept also can be placed in manual mode, with sporty Formula 1-style shifting, using a pair of control paddles on the steering wheel.

Intelligent™ 4WD System
The new fully automatic Intelligent™ 4WD System on the Bronco concept will be seen in production first on the 2005 Ford Escape. It replaces the current Control Trac II™ System and offers better traction and vehicle stability, improved fuel economy and smoother operation.
The automatic system requires no driver intervention and is so seamless in operation that most drivers will never notice that it has engaged – other than being impressed by the system’s capability in slippery conditions.
The Intelligent 4WD System uses a fully computer-controlled clutch that engages the rear wheels only as needed. In normal conditions, the Bronco concept is driven by its front wheels. Using sensors at each wheel and at the accelerator pedal, the system’s computer calculates – dozens of times per second – exactly how much torque to send to the rear wheels to minimize slip. It can even predict slip and preclude it from happening at all.
The Intelligent 4WD System eliminates one of the drawbacks of other four-wheel-drive systems tuned aggressively for maximum traction, which is a binding effect during tight turns and a feeling of driveline harshness when the system engages. The Intelligent 4WD System can sense tight turns and continuously vary torque to the rear wheels at all speeds, offering the benefits of a "locked" four-wheel-drive system without any of the drawbacks.

Introducing, your current PREZ………..

MEAN GRIF!!!!

Name: Jacob Griffin

Board Name: Grif (Mean Grif)

RROC Occupation: Current President

REAL Occupation: Biochemist

Home Base: Lincoln, Nebraska

Well my first car/truck was a 1984 2wd Ranger (which I still have stored down in Arkansas). It has a 4-cyl and a 5-speed. I did a 2” suspension lift, 3” body lift on it. I got it when I was 15 so I had time to work on it. I put the all the normal BLING things like 2” double tube bumpers with brush guard, double-single roll bar with 2 KC lights and 2 speakers that looked just like KC lights so I could hear all the tunes at the high school partiesJ. Has all the normal stuff like triple gauges, CB, and an over-the-head stereo with a total of 8 speakers in the truck.

When I had dogged the 4cly in the ’84 to death I decided to move up in size. I got a ‘89 full size Bronco. I did not have a bunch of cash so all I did with it was new tires and a good stereo but this was the rig that got me hooked on wheeln’. I lived in Michigan at the time and had lots of trails around. Nothing hardcore but was fun to run and had lots of mud. I went up to Silver Lake ORV (sand dunes) a few times.

But in 1995 my “perfect” truck dropped in my lap. It was a blue 1993 STX, S/C, 4.0, 3.73 gears, D35, 8.8 l/s and 5-speed. This truck was stock as far as drive train but had everything for the makings of a good rig and it had LOW miles. I picked it up for a steal because the guy I got it from was getting a divorce and did not want his wife to get it. The ranger had a good sound system (which I did upgrade later when I blew up the amp that was in it) and had manual everything (windows, mirrors, seats) except for the t-case. Had a Warn brush guard, nurf bars, topper, PIAA driving light and fog lights on it. I did lots of wheeln’ in Michigan and Arkansas with this rig stock until I could get the $$ to build it. Once I got the $$ the suspension lift was installed (Class 2 Skyjacker with rear springs and Superlift Superunner steering) and used 33” MTs. This is the rig that I got to cut my teeth on rocks. While in Arkansas, I did a lot of wheeln' in Hot Springs which has a lot of rocks and hills. That truck did well for not having lockers or gears. Once I moved to Nebraska and got a better job I was able to install lockers (ARB up front and Detroit rear) and 4.56 gears. I also cut the fenders and installed 35” BFG M/Ts. I wheeled this truck mainly down in Tuttle Creek Kansas, (has a little bit of every kind of wheeln’), Iowa and took it down once to wheel in Hot Springs Arkansas.

As time went on I got to thinking that this rig was too straight to run on the rocks and started looking for a “beater” and a tow rig to pull it. Well I found it; a 94 Explorer Sport that had been rolled. Picked it up for a steal (not telling how much J )!

I decided to do this one “right” the first time. I took out the D35 and 8.8. In their place I put an EB D44 and a 9” from a 69 F100. The front got an ARB and the rear got a mini spool, both have 4.88 gears. I took out the stock coil/shock buckets and replaced them with F150 buckets and F250 shock mounts. Also I used F150 brackets for the rear radius arms and I made a custom transmission mount. I installed a BlueOX (zuiksrule) track bar mount and Performance Unlimited steering.

I chopped the rear half of the Explorer because it was crushed and it made it easier to have the 6-point roll cage install. The cage was build by a local guy that does drag racers and when it was install I had them make custom sliders that can be used a jack points and can hold the whole weight of the rig. Most of the interior is pretty much gone (no carpet or seats) and I installed race seats from Summit with 5-point harnesses. It runs on 36” SuperSwamper SXs and black “rock crawler” steal rims. When the AL4crappy gave up I swapped in a C5 (with a C4 valve body and homemade shift kit) from a B2. This required me to install a B&M shifter and while I was upgrading the transmission I decided to get a deeper pan for more cooling. Has the standard gauges and CB and I just installed an ALX build wristed radius arm.

This rig had run many different types of wheeln’. I have taken it to Colorado, down to Hot Springs, Attica, and Tuttle Creek. I think it performs well in most types of wheeln’. It is by far the best over all wheeler I have every build. It is not “great” to drive for long distances on-road but that is just fine by me because I got my 97 F250 PSD to pull it around for the long trips.

As a side note I just wanted to say that as the new president I will try and steer this club in the right direction and help it grow in any way that I can. If any of you have any questions or ideas feel free to e-mail (jgriffin@neb.rr.com) or call me (see member listing on board).

Making Bluto “skinny” up front

So Wilber and I got this great idea from a post over on Pirate4x4 to narrow the front end of Bluto. I mean, why not? Paul already bobbed 17 inches off the rear, so it just seemed like the right thing to do!

We wanted to keep it as simple as possible and use all the stock parts if we could. After pulling the hood and the grill, the fun really began. First the front winch bumper Paul had made out of 600 lbs. of steel was cut down to just out side the frame horns. Then we moved the winch wiring/controls, the battery and some of the relays on the inner fenders. Since the headlights had already been relocated to the cowl, that wasn’t an issue. Next, we unbolted the fenders from the supports and the core support. After some serious thought, and some lunch, we decided that the easiest way to keep the stock look was to just fold everything in.

The core support was the first to go. The Sawzall took 9 inches off each side of it. The inner supports were then cut and notched about 6 inches away from the firewall to allow them to flex inward. We simply bent the fender supports in and tacked them to the cut ends of the core support. Only problem was the now we had an angle of about 12 degrees slope to the fenders. A choice was made to cut the fenders right where we had cut the inner supports. We figured this would give us the flex we needed and allow us to push the fenders down to this angle. It worked like a charm! Wilber did have to go back in and weld the gap in the fenders, but it came out real nice. The fenders bolted right back up to the inner supports and everything was lined up really well.

The next job we took on was the grill. I had already pulled the headlights and filled the stock grill in with a piece of expanded metal. This made the chop down to the narrowed size pretty simple. We cut the plastic outer ring of the grill in equal parts, cut down the expanded metal to the right size and fuse them back together. A combination of welds, zipties and some well-placed sheet metal screws did the job just fine. It bolted right back up to the original holes in the core support. Damned if it didn’t look pretty neat!

Last on the list was the hood. This was a challenge, just because of the angles we had to cut and the new slope on the entire front end. After several test fits and removing some of the backing supports, it fit well. The front edge had to be trimmed to compensate for the new grill and core support location, but it was easy as well. It does look like the hood will have to be pinned at the front, maybe at the back as well. This really doesn’t bother me too much, because the damn thing is so small now, one person can lift it off with relative ease.

We ran out of daylight and didn’t have time to relocate all the items on the inside of the firewall, but it all seems to be straightforward. Not to mention that we got another brilliant idea right after completing this one! I’ll give you the details of that one in the next issue of the Rough Times…

Chubby

2003 ANNIVERSARY REPORT

Last years anniversary run was originally supposed to be in two locations. One was to be at Tuttle Creek ORV area outside Randolph, KS and the other was to be at the Paragon Adventure Park. With an unfortunate turn, Mother Nature decided to give the entire east coast a terrible soaking, so the Paragon Run ended up a bust. On the other hand, the Tuttle Creek run was still a great success during the weekend of September 19-21. Perhaps there is some good in splitting them up after all!

26 members, non-members and family attended in 17 vehicles coming from 5 states. A big thanks goes out to the event sponsors, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Off-Road Motorsports, Coleman, and Coca Cola. Jacob Griffin "Grif", Clint Hamilton "Mad Max", and Happy Jack donated additional prizes. Special thanks to Big Swede for securing Coco Cola as a sponsor and to Brian "Pig Pen Jr". for his work on shirts and stickers for the event. Weather for the most part was good. Fun was had by all wheeling in the park.

There were a lot of high points of the weekend, both on the trails and off. Grif found the bottom of the gas pedal, and amazingly took a near vertical washout with ease. Wanting to further push the rig, he decided to try his luck in the Rock Garden. Probably the worst section of the park, the "garden" is a living hell on axles and ujoints. It features a tight winding trail that is littered with large boulders. It makes its way up out of a deep ravine with steep ledges, up to the edge of the parking lot area. With much backing and rocking and stacking, he made it thru without harm. Seeing Grif in there just got to be too much for old Bogger, and well he just HAD to try it in the lil red B2. It got amazingly far before it self destructed a hub, and needed assistance from Digger with his winch. Bogger has pretty much mastered how to blow up lockouts (not just break them-they EXPLODE like a hand grenade). Special thanks goes to all that helped during the extraction of the B2.

Russ Hogan (of Hogan’s Campground Disney, OK) dropped by and impressed us all with his Green Hornet buggy. We took him around to show him the stuff we like to play on, since he was actually there a weekend early for an event. Running the trails with him had us all lusting for portal axles by the end of the day! We gave him and his wife a nice batch of RRORC hospitality, and it really showed. They welcomed us down to their place for a trail ride sometime, with open arms. That’s the best thing about the club!

In all reality, half the fun was just the hanging out. Seems base camp was always a great place to chat and B.S. with all the other members. There was always more than one person ready and able to help with anything that might be needed. On the search for wood, Digger found the largest log in KS, and drug it up to the fire. We thought he was pulling a bus up the road from the sounds of it. The campfire seemed to be growing each night to the point that the last night it was the size of a small house (Bronco2Mudder's air pump was used to make the fire a forge until the fire was so big you couldn't get with in 10 feet of it). Several members no longer have eyebrows due to the heat.

Club members attending:
Jack Hamilton "HappyJack" 84 BroncoII:

Body damage
Jacob Griffin "Grif" (aka Phil McCracken) 94 Explorer Sport:

Burnt tranny Fluid.
Jesse Wifenbach? "Digger" 93 Ranger:

Body damage
Chris Emmons "Bronco2Mudder" 90 F250:

Exhaust
"CPOUSNR" 99 Ranger:

Body damage
Kevin Sarazin "Bogger" 88 Bronco II:

WAY too much to list (SUBTLE HINT)
Scott Sarazin "BogRanger" 02 F250:

Rode/drove w/Bogger
??? ?????? "Big Swede" 86 Bronco II:

Motor mount/Body damage
Keith Williams "KWillie" 47 Willy's: Tranny/clutch???
Clint Hamilton "Mad Max" 74 Bronco:

Body damage
???? ???? "CarFreak146" 94 Explorer:

None we can see!

Nonmembers attending:
Jeff Gerdes 78 CJ-7
Dave Bailey 89 YJ
Kwith Morris 03 Rubicon
Bill Spackman 83 CJ-7
John Horn Buggy (GM)
Loren Horn Yamaha WR 400F
Russ Hogan Portal axle rock buggy

Redneck Snorkel Mod

Parts list...
Shop-Vac 906-87-00 Universal Tool Adapter
Shop-Vac 901-34-00 2.5"x10' replacement hose
2 5/8" hold saw
2 part epoxy
Scrap plastic (old bed liner)

Getting started
Start by removing the intake hose from the air box and the throttle body. Remove the 5 bolts holding the top of the air box on. Remove the filter. There are 3 nuts holding the air box on the vacuum reservoir. Spray them with a lot of PB Blaster; they will be rusty and easily snapped. Remove the lower 1/2 of the air box. Remove as much of the air intake as you would like. There are 2 screws holding it to the core support.

Cut 2 pieces of plastic to cover the 2 holes in the bottom of the air box.

Used the 2 part epoxy to secure the pieces. Also add extra epoxy to any gap.

Cut the hose adapter about 1 inch from the mounting area.

Use a 2 5/8's hole saw to cut an opening for the adapter.

Attach the adapter with the cut end into the air box. Again secure it with the 2 part epoxy and fill any gaps as well.
Now the air box is ready to go back into the truck.

Set the air box back into the vehicle. Locate an area in the firewall to drill a hole for the hose.

Using the 2 5/8" hole saw cut a hole in the firewall.

Now the decision has to be made. You can keep it in the cowling or move it even higher. You can drill another 2 5/8" hole in the cowling next to the radio antenna and then run the hose up to the roof.

Securing the hose to the vehicle using zip ties. I also used 2 pieces of strapping to hold it on the "A" pillar. Then wrapped it with zip ties.

Then drill the rain gutter to secure it about the door.

I wrapped the hose with duct tape at the air box just for some added security and water protection.
Now to waterproof the electrical system.

Jesse “Digger” Weifenbach

Region E rep

I got my start in wheeling with an ’89 Bronco II and too much time on my hands. The Bronco belonged to my dad and I received it after he past away. This was 1997. The only mods I made to the truck were an add-a-leaf and slightly larger tires and rims. I went out mudding from time to time with my friends Tony (MuddinBronc) and Scott who both own Bronco II’s. Just after 9/11 I bought my ’99 Ranger. It was after buying this truck that I met Grif, who just happen to work less then a block from where I did. I added a set of 31” BFG mudders and went out for my first real wheeling trip to Tuttle Creek Kansas. There I met RRORC members BroncoIIMudder, Bogger, Happy Jack, and Kwille.

I was hooked. I joined RRORC and within two months, I had added a 4” lift and L/S diff to the truck. This lasted 6 months. Grif was looking for a new rig and would need to sell his Ranger. When he found his next project, I decided to sell the ’99 and purchase Grif’s rig since it had been well built. (Lockers, 35’s, 6”lift) I immediately added a winch and a Can-back topper and set out for the RRORC Anniversary run in Attica, Indiana. The new truck was great. After six months with the new truck, I damaged the front diff after a screw backed out of the ARB. I had an EB Dana 44 sitting in my garage that was suppose to go under my ’99 ranger, so I started gathering parts and to put it in the ’93. The install took four days in May and the following weekend we ran it at Tuttle. This is the set up that I am running currently.

I have really enjoyed the friends that I have made through the club. I have been around other clubs and they just don’t compare to the sense of family that you get with Rough Rangers. Everyone is eager to lend a hand or just some advice. I hope to be a member for a long time to come.

Truck stats

’93 Ranger STX ext. cab

4.0, 5-speed w/ Centerforce Dual-friction clutch

35” BFG Mud T/A’s on 15x8 rock crawler rims

8” lift via Wildhorse VR coils front and skyjacker springs rear 4.56 gears, ARB front/ Detroit locker rear Dana 44 with disc brake conversion, ¾ ton axles, and custom steering (full size tie rods) 8.8 rear

Warn XD9000i winch

60” Hi-Lift

Canback topper

Cobra CB, GPS

Hand throttle

On-board air

Jason L. Bucy “Pavelow”

Region J rep.

Truck stats

Truck: 94 Ranger EXT Cab XLT

Engine: 4.0

Tranny: A4LD

XFER case: BW1354 manual shift

Axles: front is a Dana 44 form a 72 bronco; rear is a 9" from a 75 bronco. Both have 4:88's and Detroit lockers.

Front suspension: James duff 3.5" coils, rancho shocks.

Rear suspension: skyjacker softride 6" leafs, rancho shocks.

Engine mods: K&N filter, BBK 66mm throttle body, granatelli MAF sensor.

Tires/rims: 35" good year MT/R's, on 15x10 rockcrawlers.

Warn Premium hubs.

Disc brakes from a 78 bronco.

9" has disc brakes too.

I'm a helicopter crew chief in the United States Air force, been a crew chief for 12 years. I'm a hard-core veteran of MANY operations, and wars.

 I'm originally from Michigan, I guess. I now hail from Florida.

“Blue coyote”
CA-W region Rep
 
Where do I start?.......
I've been hooked on RBV's since late 1998 (shortly before I bought my first one: Broncenstein). Over $12,000 later, I've learned a bit about what to spend money on and what to modify for little or no money. It’s been far too much of the latter for my liking, but that's life, eh?
 
I have my 84 BII, Broncenstein (although I'm dismantling him for the next project) as well as:
my wife's 85 Eddie Bauer BII (needs work, and a tranny-A4LDs just suck-'nuff said)
the next project is an 85 XLT BII that will be built similar to 
Broncenstein, but taking advantage of what I know now (unlike the first time around)
I also have Matt's (2wdRanger) 87 reg. cab longbox, but I am 
building/maintaining it for street-only use.
 
Currently my trail rig is a modified Norco Wolverine......Wanna go 
wheeling? :D

Sean "Chubby" Campbell
Official RRORC Biatch
 
Born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio. Left for the 
Navy the day after I got out of High school. Spent 5 years as a 
FireControlman, working on Radar and Weapons systems. Got out in early 91 
and went to work as a Chef in the daytime (go figure!) and a Bartender at 
night. Well, here it is 13 years later and I am still running bars! As far 
as wheeling goes, I grew up around drag cars, but once I traded my Camaro to 
Cory it as all but over for me. I found a home at RRORC and my extended 
family in it's members.
 

P.S., yes I have always been Chubby, ever since like 5th grade!

Dave “Taxxman2k”

Internet Coordinator

Hailing from Indianapolis IN, your new IC spends his weekends in his garage turning wrenches or in his basement pretending to be a computer geek. He met his lovely bride, Jennifer, at Purdue where he got bachelors in accounting. Answering the call to the true computer geek within, he left accounting for the IT world and has been much happier in the years since.

Taxxman2k, or Dave as he is sometimes referred to, has a black 1997 Ford Explorer affectionately know around these parts as Money-Pit. Money-Pit is sporting 35 inch Pro Comp Xterrains turned by a Ford 8.8 in the rear and an EB Dana 44 up front. The front is a standard EB setup with Wild Horses VR coils and a wristed arm. The rear is sprung over the factory springs and extended shackles for a nice level look. All this is powered by a 4.0 SOHC V6, a stout Ford Tranny with numbered days and a BW 1354 t-case.

Mark “Razor Ranger” Davidson
Region L Representative
 
Age: 26
Occupation: ASE certified Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Technician
Home: Freedom, NY
 
Rig Specs. :
 
AKA "White Trash"
1986 Ranger STX Long Bed
2.9 Liter V6 FM146 5 speed
6 inch Suspension 3 inch Body
35 x 15.5 x 15 Super Swamper TSL/SX
8.8 3.73 Limited Slip in the Rear, Dana 35 very soon in Front
 

Custom Fabricated 2002 Explorer Driveshaft

The Legend of the Jersey Devil

Legend has it that in 1735, a Pines resident known as Mother Leeds found herself pregnant for the thirteenth time. (Leeds is the name of one of New Jersey’s earliest settlers, and many descendants of the Leeds family can still be found throughout NJ to this day.) Mother Leeds was not living a wealthy lifestyle by any means. Her husband was a drunkard who made few efforts to provide for his wife and twelve children. Reaching the point of absolute exasperation upon learning of her thirteenth child’s forthcoming, she raised her hands to the heavens and proclaimed, “Let this one be a devil!”

She went into labor a few months later, on a tumultuously stormy night, no longer mindful of the curse she had utter previously regarding her unborn child. Her children and husband huddled together in one room of their Leeds’ Point home while local midwives gathered to deliver the baby in another. By all accounts the birth went routinely, and the thirteenth Leeds child was a seemingly normal baby boy.

Within minutes however, Mother Leeds’ unholy wish of months before began to come to fruition. The baby started to change, and metamorphosed right before her very eyes. Within moments it transformed from a beautiful newborn baby into a hideous creature unlike anything the world had ever seen.

The wailing infant began growing at an incredible rate. It sprouted horns from the top of its head and talon-like claws tore through the tips of its fingers. Leathery bat-like wings unfurled from its back, and hair and feathers sprouted all over the child’s body. Its eyes began glowing bright red, as they grew larger in the monster’s gnarled and snarling face. The creature savagely attacked its own mother, killing her, and then turned its attention to the rest of the horrified onlookers who witnessed its tempestuous transformation. It flew at them, clawing and biting, voicing unearthly shrieks the entire time. It tore the midwives limb from limb, maiming some and killing others.

The monster then knocked down the door to the next room where its own father and siblings cowered in fear and attacked them all, killing as many as it could. Those who survived to tell the tale then watched in horror as the rotten beast sprinted to the chimney and flew up it, destroying it on the way and leaving a pile of rubble in its wake. The creature then made good its escape into the darkness and desolation of the Pines, where it has lived ever since. To this day the creature, known varyingly as the Leeds Devil and the Jersey Devil, claims the Pines as its own, and terrorizes any who are unfortunate enough to encounter it.

In 18th and 19th centuries the Jersey Devil was spotted sporadically throughout the Pine Barrens region, frightening local residents and any of those brave enough to traverse the vast undeveloped expanses of New Jersey’s southern reaches. Unearthly wails were often reported emanating from the dark forests and swampy bogs, and the slaughter of domesticated animals would invariably be attributed to the Phantom of the Pines. Over the years the legend of the Leeds Devil grew, occasionally even overstepping the boundaries of its rural Pine Barrens haunt to terrorized local towns and cities

BooHoo

Keep that mud and water out after you cut your wheel wells!

Did you cut your fenders on your Bronco II or Ranger to fit bigger tires? Are you now getting tons of mud and water thrown into your engine bay or rear quarter panels? I was. With the front and rear fenders cut it left a gap between the body and the inner plastic fender on the front and the inner metal fender well in back. Actually part of the inner plastic in front was cut for taller shock mounts too.

I found an easy solution for the front that has worked out great so far. You will need a roll of 3” or 4” lawn edging, a rivet gun and a drill with a bit, small enough for the rivets you are using. Optional stuff is clear or black caulk.

I bought a roll of 3” lawn edging from the local hardware store. I then cut the bottom anchor edges (not the rounded top part) off. Next I cut a slit all the way from end to end on the side of the rounded top. I then pushed the edging onto the edge of the fender so that the actual edging was pointing in toward the engine. I cut it to fit. Then, I drilled some small holes though the edging that was hanging over the out side of the body and used rivets to attach. The 3” edging now makes a reverse fender flair on the inside, stopping almost all of the water and mud from getting to the engine. You can also rivet the inside fender well to the edging, if you have enough inner fender well left. It can be made to look neater, if you want. Instead of riveting through the out side lip that is attached to the body, pull the edging back (or drill from the other side) and put the rivets through backwards. You can then squirt some clear or black caulk behind the outside lip and it will look basically like the door protectors that some people use.

I can’t take credit for the solution on the back; I believe it was CoryL who came up with it. It is even simpler than the front. Take an old bicycle tube (or car tire tube) and cut it in half. Now make a cut lengthwise. Rivet one edge of the tube to the outside of the fender well and the other edge to the inner fender. You will probably have to use rivet washers so that the rubber does not pull through. I also squirted some clear caulk under the lip of the rubber, in-between each rivet just to block mud and water from getting in that way.

This is what I have been running and I get very little if any mud inside my engine bay or in my rear quarter panels. To do this, I think it cost me a total of about $20.

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