What is stopping you ?????

[Chubby]

Why not a 35 shaft in a 28, mind you, trail rig only!

Here are the problems/solutions Wilber, Cube and I came up with:

1. Have the 35 shafts tappered and resplined to match the 28 ends($100 at local speed shop). All seals and bearings fit tappered ends.

2. Knotch the knuckle to get the shafts into the beams.

3. Cut out a small amount of the beam opening at each end for the ujoint to clear.

4. Grind the beam at the slip shaft so it clears.

Granted, your going to have to go back and re-enforce some areas of the beams, but do you really weaken it that much by removing a 1/2 inch at the opening or along the recess that it can't be welded or braced back to strength?

You get the bigger shaft and yokes, plus a larger ujoint for $100 and some labor?????

[Toolbox]

yeah whatever punk and say I give him a D35 for less than that!!!:nuts:

[Pottsy]

Trail Rig = SAS..........:fin:

[Chief]

Originally posted by Toolbox-Rob
yeah whatever punk and say I give him a D35 for less than that!!!:nuts:

BINGO! That's why it's not worth the trouble. You can get a full D35 for cheap. Seems like Boggers fix is the best way to go for the D28 shafts. Just weld the caps on!

[Digger]

It's a good upgrade for the 28, but one wonders why not go bigger? A d35 is a direct bolt in for the 28, minus shortening the driveshaft.

[CUBE]

Here is the reason we came up with this.

What is the weakest point on a 28??....We all know the shafts.

What is the problem is a 35??......It acts like a plow....

If you could take 35 shafts and install them in a 28 yes you have a hybird axle but is great ground clearence.

[Digger]

Originally posted by CUBE
Here is the reason we came up with this.

What is the weakest point on a 28??....We all know the shafts.

What is the problem is a 35??......It acts like a plow....

If you could take 35 shafts and install them in a 28 yes you have a hybird axle but is great ground clearence.

Agreed, the 35 is a plow, I gain more clearance by going to a SA 44

[Chubby]

No argument that an SAS is the way to go, but for $100 you solve a few issues with the 28, eliminate the work of the swap and the cost of a new driveshaft, and dont end up with a plow in the front.

Wilber has a D44 to swap in, but hasnt geared or locked it yet. Plus the cost to do the swap right now would be a little more than $100. My thoughts were for the rest of the summer, since he is wheelin it, to try this out with what he has....no harm, no foul right?

[Digger]

Well, let us know how long it takes him to break it:fin:

[Mustang]

Also let us know where to send the D28 shafts to get them cut tapered and resplined for $100. The only local shop in this area charges 100 per side for a rear axle shaft for a 9".

[Chubby]

It is a local place that has been around for ever here in Cleveland called Michael's. They do mostly speed work, but have an excellent axle guy named Rich. He siad the cost is low due to the easy turn down and respline in the shafts.

[G. Curtis Barnhart]

Has anyone tried cutting off about an inch off the bottom of the 35. You'll loose one bolt but maybe it can be move inward. I've got an extra 35 to take apart a look into this idea. Haven't looked inside a 35 in a few years so I'm not sure of the problems. The lower bolts are external and I'm wondering if a small alum. piece could be place inside to retap for moving the one bolt? Or do we even need to? Will it be a strength problem or a leak problem? Can replace the lower part of the beam for protection and strength of the beam. Any thoughts about this?

[bogger]

Originally posted by G. Curtis Barnhart
Has anyone tried cutting off about an inch off the bottom of the 35. You'll loose one bolt but maybe it can be move inward. I've got an extra 35 to take apart a look into this idea. Haven't looked inside a 35 in a few years so I'm not sure of the problems. The lower bolts are external and I'm wondering if a small alum. piece could be place inside to retap for moving the one bolt? Or do we even need to? Will it be a strength problem or a leak problem? Can replace the lower part of the beam for protection and strength of the beam. Any thoughts about this?


got an idea along those lines for a 28 i'm pondering, but i think the problem is going to be breaking third members



as for the shafts getting cut down and resplined, i have atleast 4 sitting out in the shop that are why that wont work. 2 done without welding 2 with welding the joint caps to the joints. And thats i'm twisting the splines on the shafts in the diff. You go with a 35 shaft, it's still gonna be the same strength where it enters the diff.

BUT, my thoughs on that is this....

machine the bore in the third member larger as well if needed, larger enough an unmodified dana 35 shaft will fit into it. then weld a spider gear from a dana 35 to the dana 28 open carrier, run welded front, dana 28 with 35 shafts, then you'll prolly break the ring/pinion or the main caps though.

[Bobby Walter III]

thats what my dad said. then weld 2 nuts in front of the caps and use bolts for cap support. this will last for a long long time with a wheezin 2.8.


and this is what i want to try.


but he does not like weldin diffs cause they will always fail.

i keep tellin em its ok......if ya get a season you win. the problem is the spindles. and the shaft lenght. still need to be cut shorter.:dunno:

[Bobby Walter III]

but there is another deal i been workin on. one of these days it will be set...i want to try this next before i go hackin up my 35 shafts.

i dont have the scanner hooked up but i will try to describe this best i can.


take grade 8 3/8 fine threads.....stainless steel washersthat at least cover the ears of the shaft. drill and tap the joint thru the caps


clean and regrease...

intall modified joint to shafts...install shafts...

bolt washers to shafts when they are in and you have a good external retention that should still clear...bolt heads may need some grindin or just use low profile heads...


and if you ar willin to make the x cutsin the knuckel to make room...just weld it all...but that wont be necessary.

plus the ol man says that due to the imperfect alignment when weldin spiders they will tend to bust off in the spider do to torsional loading.



just somethingi ant to try first and i will go halfs on the shafts to do it...if wilber is willin.